The Glass Onion on Hwy 17

Inconspicuously good, fresh food. A relaxed atmosphere. And a friendly staff.

They’re doing it right at The Glass Onion restaurant on Highway 17, just past the intersection of Farmfield Avenue, on the left. As they say, “We strongly believe in the importance of eating seasonally, locally, and naturally. So, you can expect all natural meats, local seafood, and vegetables from as close to home as we can get.”

Don’t miss the fried chicken livers. If you’re on a tight budget, go for the 4 sides for $7.

And their cornbread—how did they do that?

You’ll find owner Sarah O’Kelley—with her signature hair bandanna—busing tables and working the register in a funky building whose original claim to fame is that it housed the first Seven-Eleven store in South Carolina. It’s got new fame now, though. And lots of repeat customers. •

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Is it Monday yet?

Whether you enjoy wine a little or a lot, there’s nothing worse than a snooty wine shop and merchants who act like geniuses. Wine is a lot friendlier than that and so are genuine wine lovers, which is evident at Avondale Wine & Cheese on Savannah Highway (just across from Gerald’s Tires).

The owner, Manoli Davani, was earning her masters degree at the College of Charleston in the 1990s when she started cooking at Fast & French and Il Cortile del Re. She later became the wine buyer at The Med Deli and eventually was hired as a rep for a wine distributor. One thing led to another and with the help of her husband she opened Avondale Wine & Cheese in 2007.

From the beginning their goal has been to create a casual atmosphere similar to the family shops that her husband grew to like in the small neighborhoods of Rome.

Owner, Manoli Divani

The Black Sheep Café—one of the original name ideas for the shop—turned into a reality one day when Manoli realized she had enough groceries on hand to put up a menu. Since then she’s offered cheese, olive, and salad plates at the two informal tables near the front door. The menu is simple, fresh, and delectable—a perfect complement to wine.

When it comes to types of wines and price ranges, Manoli says, “There are no boundaries. I quickly realized that there’s a market for everything, for all tastes. The only boundary is that I have to like it.”

She currently offers special cases of wine for $75 (down from $100 due to the economy). These are deals that get passed on to her from her suppliers, which she sees as “an opportunity to give a great value to customers.”

When I asked about the cheeses, Manoli responded unhesitatingly, “I look only for the best. Many chefs in town are my clients and they drive my cheese program, based on what they need.”

“A lot of my cheeses I import directly from small farms as well as through a European importer, often waiting a month or more for them to arrive. And the local chefs here keep my cheese rotating to the point that the store has become a 50-50 wine and cheese business, which is exciting for me because I always wanted to have a cheese shop.” You’d be excited, too, if you had hundreds of seasonal cheeses on hand in the middle of a private assortment of 250 wines. Another charming thing about this place are the $5 tastings on Monday and Thursday from 5 to 7 where you’ll find a relaxed, eclectic crowd and the opportunity to taste 5 wines.

The tasting bar

That’s 520 tastes a year, and a bargain for the chance to dip into some new wines, learn more about the noble grape, and meet nice people. Hey, it’s supposed to be fun.

One more noteworthy item. Manoli does it right even at these informal tastings: she pours into large glasses with generous bowls, which is exactly what you want for scrutinizing the color, texture, fragrance, and flavors of wine.

Is it Monday—or Thursday—yet?

Avondale Wine & Cheese
Voted City Paper’s best neighborhood wine and cheese of 2008
813-B Savannah Hwy. (West Ashley)
769-5444
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Manoli also hosts seasonal beer tastings. Read about those here.