Getting High

Ready to hit the trail

Now and then it is a good idea to get out of town for variety, out of the heat for your sanity, and away from the ocean for change of pace. Lots of people go to the mountains, but why not shoot high—more than a mile high—and go all the way to the North Carolina-Tennessee border and walk on the Appalachian Trail? The air is cool and thin, and on a clear day you can see five states (at least that’s what a local hiker told us). We came to the trail just above Bakersville, NC on Highway 261 (follow 26 to 19 to 226 to 261).

With North Carolina in the background

From the parking lot, it was an easy walk through pristine forest on a well-worn gravel path that brought us quickly to the mountain top. Manicured grounds and a sweeping 360-degree view were waiting. The perfect spot for contemplation or a picnic, or both. Of course, we talked about coming back at sunset with wine. Maybe next time?

Way down the mountain, over a ridge to the south, lies the churn and charm of Charleston which we will see again soon enough. For now, we let them be. It’s time to look around, clear our heads, and touch the sky.

When wearied, I mount on the bird of light and empty air,
And wander in the region of non-identity,
To dwell in the wilderness of desert space.
~ Kwang-Tze

· Get directions to Bakersville, NC

A New Site in Town

The Charleston Observer is not going anywhere, for now. But here’s our latest venture. Take a look at www.CharlestonToday.net. And tell your friends!

Simple Splendor

A precious stillness pervades the room. It is small, intimate, and ornamental, with soothing colors of brown, blue, and white. You feel like you have stepped inside a Gothic Revival jewelry box. But it’s not easy to get inside The French Huguenot Church unless you attend a Sunday-morning service. So please enjoy the one-minute video below.

Interior of The Huguenot Church

A little history: This French Protestant church was founded about 1681 by Huguenot refugees from the Protestant persecutions in France. The first church was built on its present site in 1687, but was destroyed in 1796 during an attempt to stop the spread of fire which had burned a large surrounding area. The original building was replaced in 1800 and then dismantled in 1844 to make way for the present Gothic Revival ediface, designed by Edward Brickell White. The structure was damaged during the Civil War and nearly demolished in the earthquake of 1886. The present building dates to 1845. It is the only remaining independent Huguenot church in America.

The Huguenot Cross pendant

If you go inside, look for the beautiful Huguenot cross which was designed in the form of a Maltese cross, with four triangles meeting at the center. Each triangle has two rounded points, signifying the eight Beatitudes of Matthew 5: 3-10. Between the triangles are four fleurs de lis, symbolizing purity, and four open spaces in the form of four hearts, for love and loyalty. In the pendant, a dove is suspended from the lower triangle by a gold ring, signifying the Holy Spirit. In times of persecution, a pearl, symbolizing a teardrop, replaced the dove.

The four arms of the Maltese cross are sometimes regarded as the heraldic form of the four petals of the Lily of France which grows in the south of France. The arms symbolize the four Gospels. ¶

French Huguenot Church
44 Queen St • Get directions

Monks in Moncks Corner

Beautifully situated on the banks of the Cooper River on what was originally Native American hunting ground, Mepkin Abbey has been home to Trappist monks since 1949.

View along the Cooper River

The original Mepkin Plantation was purchased in 1936 by Henry and Clare Booth Luce who later donated much of the property to the Abbey of Gethsemani (in Kentucky) for the purpose of establishing a monastic community in South Carolina. Mepkin Abbey was founded 13 years later, in 1949.

According to their web site, the monks are Roman Catholic monks who belong to the worldwide Order of Cistercians of the Strict Observance. They are part of a tradition that was formalized in the sixth century by St. Benedict of Nursia, Italy. The Cistercians renewed their tradition at the Norman Abbey of La Trappe in the mid 17th century, thereafter being popularly known as “Trappist” monks.

Entrance to the Mepkin Garden

Soon after the Luces bought the property in 1936, Mrs. Luce commissioned landscape architect Loutrell Briggs to create the Mepkin Gardens which were renovated in 1988 by Nancy Bryan Luce, the wife of Henry Luce III. This is now perhaps the most beautiful and meditative part of the monastery grounds. And, yes, you can picnic here.

Detail of Christ’s hand

As you wander the grounds—and you can leisurely explore most of the outdoor areas—you will see some pleasant statuary. One of the nicest is a slightly larger than life-size sculpture of Christ and the disciple John. Their hands in particular are sensitively done.

Elsewhere you’ll find grand oaks, palmettos, ponds (watch out for alligators, they say), and large lawns. You want to just sprawl on the grass, look up at the moss-adorned trees, and savor the pastoral quietude.

If you (men and women) are interested in visiting for more than an afternoon or day, you can sign up as a ‘retreatant’ and stay in one of the guest cabins. Men (only) who want to learn about possibly becoming monks can stay for 30 days or more to live, work, and pray with the resident monks.

Formerly famous for their fresh eggs, the monks now grow and sell mushrooms. To learn more, click the logo below.

Mepkin Abbey
Off Hwy 402 (near Moncks Corner)
Get directions (843) 761 8509

Boone Hall Plantation

Not Daniel Boone. He lived (mostly) in Kentucky. This was the property of Major John Boone who received it as a gift from his father-in-law, and whose son planted the picturesque, now 266-year-old oaks that canopy the entry road.

Entrance to Boone Hall

This stunning acreage is situated on a bend in the river that once served as the cargo channel for cotton and pecans that were grown here at different times.

You can even see a small plot of cotton that sits inconspicuously next to the parking lot. It’s worth pausing here to reflect on the extent to which the South’s extravagant, turbulent history revolved around this delicate, dull-looking plant. And that such an ingenious device as the cotton gin would ultimately prompt the demise of the very industry that it launched. Want more information about the history of the plantation? See this detailed article with old photos by freelance photographer Reid Stott.

We did not visit them, but there is a pumpkin patch and jump castle for the kids on the property, as well as a charming boathouse (which we did see) that you can rent for private events.

If you visit—which is worth the admission fee—you’ll of course be faced with that ultimate decision: “should I wait to go on the tour of the main house?” Do it. You won’t be sorry. Even though it’s not the original building which burned, there is an easy flow as you walk through the formal rooms, across a brick sun room (the original kitchen) and into the small, wood-paneled study. Should you have to wait outside beforehand, there is fortunately a large covered sitting area in front of the house where you can read, rest, or just be. Unfortunately, the construction over the seats has ruined what would otherwise be one of the best views on the property: the house from its own front gate. (They definitely gotta fix that.)

The main house with its beautiful undulating wall

Something you probably won’t miss is the row of slave cabins. Nevertheless, take the time to go into all of them because each one is unique in its design. The rectangular floor plans, the craftsmanship, and the building materials are truly admirable. And the speckled light reflecting off the brick and tiles is gorgeous.

Former slave cabins

Something that’s easy to miss, however, is the deep-blue pond at the far end of the property.

Be sure to follow the road behind the main house along the river until you reach the pond. There’s a good chance you’ll see some water fowl, and it’s a great spot for a picnic.

Besides, you drove all this way. You paid a sturdy admission. You might as well stay awhile and take full advantage of this spectacular piece of land.

The pond 200 yards past the main house

There is not only a lot of history and beauty here. There’s mystery in the air and along the river. It makes you inclined to linger and wonder about the spirit of both the land and the people who have occupied it over the years. This is a place to come back to.

Boone Hall Plantation
1235 Long Point Road
Mt. Pleasant • 884-4371
Get directions