Ready to hit the trail

Now and then it is a good idea to get out of town for variety, out of the heat for your sanity, and away from the ocean for change of pace. Lots of people go to the mountains, but why not shoot high—more than a mile high—and go all the way to the North Carolina-Tennessee border and walk on the Appalachian Trail? The air is cool and thin, and on a clear day you can see five states (at least that’s what a local hiker told us). We came to the trail just above Bakersville, NC on Highway 261 (follow 26 to 19 to 226 to 261).

With North Carolina in the background

From the parking lot, it was an easy walk through pristine forest on a well-worn gravel path that brought us quickly to the mountain top. Manicured grounds and a sweeping 360-degree view were waiting. The perfect spot for contemplation or a picnic, or both. Of course, we talked about coming back at sunset with wine. Maybe next time?

Way down the mountain, over a ridge to the south, lies the churn and charm of Charleston which we will see again soon enough. For now, we let them be. It’s time to look around, clear our heads, and touch the sky.

When wearied, I mount on the bird of light and empty air,
And wander in the region of non-identity,
To dwell in the wilderness of desert space.
~ Kwang-Tze

· Get directions to Bakersville, NC

Interior of The Huguenot Church

A little history: This French Protestant church was founded about 1681 by Huguenot refugees from the Protestant persecutions in France. The first church was built on its present site in 1687, but was destroyed in 1796 during an attempt to stop the spread of fire which had burned a large surrounding area. The original building was replaced in 1800 and then dismantled in 1844 to make way for the present Gothic Revival ediface, designed by Edward Brickell White. The structure was damaged during the Civil War and nearly demolished in the earthquake of 1886. The present building dates to 1845. It is the only remaining independent Huguenot church in America.

The Huguenot Cross pendant

If you go inside, look for the beautiful Huguenot cross which was designed in the form of a Maltese cross, with four triangles meeting at the center. Each triangle has two rounded points, signifying the eight Beatitudes of Matthew 5: 3-10. Between the triangles are four fleurs de lis, symbolizing purity, and four open spaces in the form of four hearts, for love and loyalty. In the pendant, a dove is suspended from the lower triangle by a gold ring, signifying the Holy Spirit. In times of persecution, a pearl, symbolizing a teardrop, replaced the dove.

The four arms of the Maltese cross are sometimes regarded as the heraldic form of the four petals of the Lily of France which grows in the south of France. The arms symbolize the four Gospels. ¶

French Huguenot Church
44 Queen St • Get directions

View along the Cooper River

The original Mepkin Plantation was purchased in 1936 by Henry and Clare Booth Luce who later donated much of the property to the Abbey of Gethsemani (in Kentucky) for the purpose of establishing a monastic community in South Carolina. Mepkin Abbey was founded 13 years later, in 1949.

According to their web site, the monks are Roman Catholic monks who belong to the worldwide Order of Cistercians of the Strict Observance. They are part of a tradition that was formalized in the sixth century by St. Benedict of Nursia, Italy. The Cistercians renewed their tradition at the Norman Abbey of La Trappe in the mid 17th century, thereafter being popularly known as “Trappist” monks.

Entrance to the Mepkin Garden

Soon after the Luces bought the property in 1936, Mrs. Luce commissioned landscape architect Loutrell Briggs to create the Mepkin Gardens which were renovated in 1988 by Nancy Bryan Luce, the wife of Henry Luce III. This is now perhaps the most beautiful and meditative part of the monastery grounds. And, yes, you can picnic here.

Detail of Christ’s hand

As you wander the grounds—and you can leisurely explore most of the outdoor areas—you will see some pleasant statuary. One of the nicest is a slightly larger than life-size sculpture of Christ and the disciple John. Their hands in particular are sensitively done.

Elsewhere you’ll find grand oaks, palmettos, ponds (watch out for alligators, they say), and large lawns. You want to just sprawl on the grass, look up at the moss-adorned trees, and savor the pastoral quietude.

If you (men and women) are interested in visiting for more than an afternoon or day, you can sign up as a ‘retreatant’ and stay in one of the guest cabins. Men (only) who want to learn about possibly becoming monks can stay for 30 days or more to live, work, and pray with the resident monks.

Formerly famous for their fresh eggs, the monks now grow and sell mushrooms. To learn more, click the logo below.

Mepkin Abbey
Off Hwy 402 (near Moncks Corner)
Get directions (843) 761 8509

Entrance to Boone Hall

This stunning acreage is situated on a bend in the river that once served as the cargo channel for cotton and pecans that were grown here at different times.

You can even see a small plot of cotton that sits inconspicuously next to the parking lot. It’s worth pausing here to reflect on the extent to which the South’s extravagant, turbulent history revolved around this delicate, dull-looking plant. And that such an ingenious device as the cotton gin would ultimately prompt the demise of the very industry that it launched. Want more information about the history of the plantation? See this detailed article with old photos by freelance photographer Reid Stott.

We did not visit them, but there is a pumpkin patch and jump castle for the kids on the property, as well as a charming boathouse (which we did see) that you can rent for private events.

If you visit—which is worth the admission fee—you’ll of course be faced with that ultimate decision: “should I wait to go on the tour of the main house?” Do it. You won’t be sorry. Even though it’s not the original building which burned, there is an easy flow as you walk through the formal rooms, across a brick sun room (the original kitchen) and into the small, wood-paneled study. Should you have to wait outside beforehand, there is fortunately a large covered sitting area in front of the house where you can read, rest, or just be. Unfortunately, the construction over the seats has ruined what would otherwise be one of the best views on the property: the house from its own front gate. (They definitely gotta fix that.)

The main house with its beautiful undulating wall

Something you probably won’t miss is the row of slave cabins. Nevertheless, take the time to go into all of them because each one is unique in its design. The rectangular floor plans, the craftsmanship, and the building materials are truly admirable. And the speckled light reflecting off the brick and tiles is gorgeous.

Former slave cabins

Something that’s easy to miss, however, is the deep-blue pond at the far end of the property.

Be sure to follow the road behind the main house along the river until you reach the pond. There’s a good chance you’ll see some water fowl, and it’s a great spot for a picnic.

Besides, you drove all this way. You paid a sturdy admission. You might as well stay awhile and take full advantage of this spectacular piece of land.

The pond 200 yards past the main house

There is not only a lot of history and beauty here. There’s mystery in the air and along the river. It makes you inclined to linger and wonder about the spirit of both the land and the people who have occupied it over the years. This is a place to come back to.

Boone Hall Plantation
1235 Long Point Road
Mt. Pleasant • 884-4371
Get directions

Entrance to the house

Then there is the unusual step down into the foyer and back up some marble stairs. It’s not architecturally intuitive, but it’s interesting.

And the workmanship in wood, metal, and stone—especially considering when they were done (mid 1800s)—is exquisite. You rarely see this kind of artistic detail in modern construction, even on the most expensive homes.

Be sure to take advantage of the audio tour that comes with your admission fee. And pay close attention to the instructions for how to use the audio player, because it’s easy to get confused once the tape starts playing. The tour, however, is very informative.

You’ll want to go at an easy pace so as to experience the particular charm of each room. And don’t miss the back stairway with its slender, elegant design and high windows.

When the times come, turn off your audio device and linger on the upstairs porch. You have a nice view of the houses and park across the street, and it’s just pleasant to be on such a spacious, second-story porch.

View from the front

The out buildings are also worth a visit. The sleeping quarters are simple but surprisingly tasteful in their layout, and the stable and blacksmith area is worth your attention. Inside and out, this ‘town’ plantation—all things considered—feels like it was a nice place to have lived. Given its size, solidity, and safe distance from the harbor, it’s no wonder that confederate officers appropriated it as a base during the Civil War.

Rear courtyard

The artistic highlight is the last room on the tour of the main house: the formal sitting room with the marble sculpture of a repentant Mary Magdalene. Entering this room is awkward because you’re restricted to one small corner. Also, most of the windows in this room are shuttered, so you need to give your eyes time to adjust before you can see the art and architectural details on all the walls and really appreciate the style of life that was enjoyed here before there was electricity.

Mary Magdalene

Note: try to visit on a sunny day because the house, beautiful as it is, is dark inside (don’t know why they can’t brighten it up some).

Aiken-Rhett House
48 Elizabeth St
723-1159
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That’s winter at the Charleston Tea Plantation, which is followed in Spring by the First Flush Festival (May 16, 2009).

This is America’s only tea ‘garden’ which was purchased in 1987 by Bill Hall (can you imagine tasting 800 cups of tea a day?).

Bill is a third-generation tea taster and tea maker whose passion for the leaf led him to create the American Classic Tea brand. In 2003, he sold ownership of the business to The Bigelow Tea Company, but Bill still runs the plantation with loving care and “continues to oversee and approve the taste of every single batch of production.”

Tea Maker Bill Hall

The free factory visit where you see how tea leaves are processed is fascinating, and the 30-minute trolley tour around the plantation is relaxing and informative. (Know which is the number-one consumed beverage in the world?—you’ll be wrong.) And never will you meet agricultural folks who so adore their farm equipment, namely the ‘Green Giant’ harvester.

Tea plants also don’t look the way you would think. Nor is the history of tea what you might expect. As the website says, “From Buddhist monks using it in their religious ceremonies to American revolutionaries tossing it into Boston Harbor, tea has become more than a beverage; it has become an event. For nearly 5,000 years this drink has been a source of medicine, meditation, piracy, political upheaval, social order, congregation, and superstition.”

There is also a great spot to picnic under a spacious covered area with tables. And it’s hard to get out of the cute gift shop without buying a gift or two, not to mention a box of tea.

Charleston Tea Plantation
6617 Maybank Hwy
Wadmalaw Island
(843) 559-0383
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But inside is a showcase of luxurious architecture, with a cantilevered stairway as the centerpiece. As our tour guide pointed out, the stairway should have been impossible to do because of the short landing in the middle, from where you can look out the large front window, down into the gracious hallway, and up at the crystal chandelier and ornamental ceiling. The handrail is a craftsman’s delight. And the entire house is elegant and well restored.

Interestingly, it was the owner’s brother, Gabriel Manigault, who designed this house for his brother Joseph. It happens that Gabriel also designed Charleston’s City Hall on Broad Street, another massive structure.

Tip: when you visit, be sure to ask about the ‘secret’ ladder on the second floor.

Joseph Manigault House
corner of Meeting and John Streets
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The unusual melding of natural landscape, formal gardens, and outdoor sculpture is magnificent. According to the website, this is the largest collection of American figurative sculpture in the United States. You just want to walk and walk and look and look—which gets you very tired, hence the picnic.

There are also boat and trolley tours that cover a wider area than many people may want to on foot.

Also according to the website, the mammoth oak trees you will see are 250 years old, planted in the early 1700s when Brookgreen Gardens was a thriving rice plantation. It was in 1931 that Archer and Anna Hyatt Huntington developed the gardens, and it is her unique sculptures that comprised the original collection. “Designed around the walkways laid out by Mrs. Huntington, the gardens have long been regarded as one of the nation’s most beautiful botanical displays.”

Although these pictures cannot fully convey it, the light on the marble against the background of marsh and ponds is breathtaking. Each garden and every view is distinct. This place is more than just beautiful. It is a meditative wonder.

There is also a pleasant zoo said to be the only one on the coast of North and South Carolina accredited by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums (AZA). You can get almost within arm’s reach of some of the animals, except for the alligators of course. But have you ever seen a barred owl or bald eagle up really close? Wow.

At left is a snapshot of a gorgeous red fox that we saw nestling in for a nap on a tree limb.

Need some inspiration to get up the road? Take a few minutes and watch this slideshow of the sculpture and gardens set to music.

Brookgreen Gardens
1931 Brookgreen Drive
Murrells Inlet, SC 29576
(south of Myrtle Beach)
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The Yorktown looming over 2 fishermen

Make sure you follow all the tours (the red lines on the floor) and get down into the lowest sections where the engine is. And by all means buy a big salty pretzel in the concession area. A perfect appetizer out at sea. When you’re done, take an extra 20 minutes to visit the small black submarine next door. How those guys lived aboard that thing—underwater no less—is hard to comprehend. And the fact that someone could build it. You come out of there very grateful for twenty-first century technology (assuming we don’t have another major war soon).

Speaking of new technology, when you visit Patriots Point, it’s too convenient not to take a walk up the Ravenel Bridge and appreciate the fantastic view of the Yorktown and the city. But the bridge itself is the main thing. Astonishing in its design, engineering, and materials—North America’s longest cable stay span bridge. Again, that someone could conceive and build it is very, very impressive.

Climbing The Ravenel Bridge

Having grown up with the single Cooper River Bridge, and later the two bridges, I initially looked scornfully at the ‘modern’ Ravenel bridge. I was sure it had permanently ruined the traditional skyline of Charleston. But it has slowly grown on me to the point that I cannot imagine it not being there, so wonderful it is.

Nevertheless, it is one thing to drive across the bridge and another to walk on it—up it—and feel it hovering in the air over the harbour.

Patriots Point
just north across the Ravenel Bridge
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